I know that I have mentioned this before, but, as we are getting towards the end of the lawn mowing season, I will mention it again.
Do not be tempted to give your lawn one last "GOOD HAIRCUT". This will do so much more damage than you think, and very often you will still have to cut the lawn again because it keeps growing in our milder climates, sometimes even into December.
You should actually be cutting your lawn at about 1/4" (6mm) longer than you do during the summer, so please resist the temptation to scalp it to within an inch of it's life just so you don't have to cut it as early as your neighbour. Your lawn will repay you during the spring and summer months if you treat it properly now, and that includes how you mow it too. Remember, "A lawn is not just for Christmas, it's for life",(or was that something else!).
It is also worth remembering that you should always look after and maintain your lawnmower during the year as well, it is very easy to cause damage to your lawn with badly maintained equipment.
Depending on which type of lawnmower you have, cylinder, hover or rotary, you can cause varying degrees of damage. Scalping,(where you shave the grass away altogether back to bare earth, can happen at the edges of a lawn with a hover mower especially.
This happens when you run the mower past the edge of the lawn and lose the air cushion underneath, thus causing the cutting blades to come into contact with the ground.
Other scalping causes are where you start a mower without slightly tipping it to one side, having the blades on your rotary mower too low and high spots on your lawn (this is especially bad with a cylinder mower as it will just dig in and try to plough it's way through.
If you see browning of the tips of the grass after you have cut your lawn this is a sign that the blades of your lawnmower need sharpening, you are actually "bruising" the grass rather than cutting it. Another reason is if you are cutting your lawn when it is wet.
There are a couple of other problems that can occur through bad cutting practices such as "washboarding", a series of broad and regular stripes or corrugations running CROSSWISE along the length of the cut, almost like a wave. The main reason for this effect in your lawns surface is that you always mow in the same direction and pattern. This causes, or rather your lawnmower causes, a ripple like pattern in your base surface because of the vibrations, especially of larger motor mowers.
You can sort this out by changing direction of your mowing pattern, a gentle rolling of the lawn and top dressing each autumn until you get the surface level again.
"Ribbing" is a pattern in your lawn of a series of short, followed by long strips of grass running again CROSSWISE along the length of the cut.
The primary cause of this problem in your lawn, (which isn't as common as it used to be with the advent of different types of lawnmowers), is that the blades of the cylinder mower are revolving too slowly, there are not enough blades on the cylinder mower or that the grass is too long for the cylinder mower blades to cut properly, so mow your lawn more regularly.
There you have it then, a quick reminder that managed to develop into a full blown article about the problems you can have resulting from mowing your lawn badly.
Please keep them in mind as we finish the mowing season for your lawns and we will be back again soon with more help for you and your lawn.
Wednesday, October 18, 2006
Tuesday, October 17, 2006
A Quick Job
A Quick Job
Just another quick post to remind you that you should be constantly clearing the leaves and debris from Autumn from your lawn. Do not make the mistake of thinking that leaves and other biodegradable "rubbish" will make good compost and feed your lawn. They can make good compost, but only in your compost heap. On your lawn they WILL cause problems, they can cover the actual grass and restrict it's growth, attract disease and harbour weeds and produce too much nitrogen (as they rot) which in turn harms the grass, (similar to dog urine damage) - so just gently brush or rake the lawn to remove any rubbish.
That's it, just a little reminder to keep on looking after your lawn. A little regular work will save a lot of trouble and effort later.
Just another quick post to remind you that you should be constantly clearing the leaves and debris from Autumn from your lawn. Do not make the mistake of thinking that leaves and other biodegradable "rubbish" will make good compost and feed your lawn. They can make good compost, but only in your compost heap. On your lawn they WILL cause problems, they can cover the actual grass and restrict it's growth, attract disease and harbour weeds and produce too much nitrogen (as they rot) which in turn harms the grass, (similar to dog urine damage) - so just gently brush or rake the lawn to remove any rubbish.
That's it, just a little reminder to keep on looking after your lawn. A little regular work will save a lot of trouble and effort later.
Friday, October 13, 2006
Designing A Lawn? - A Few Do’s And Don’ts - Part 1
Designing A Lawn? - A Few Do’s And Don’ts.
Part 1.
If you are going to design a lawn, whether it be totally from scratch on a brand new plot, or incorporating an existing lawn or features that are already established, you need to think and plan very carefully before you take to your tools and sewing lawn seed or turf.
The lawn you lay in haste is a lawn you are likely to grow to dislike. A little bit of extra thought now will save a lot of anguish, hard work and heartache later.
Before you even think about buying anything or getting any tools out, ask yourself a few simple questions.
What kind of lawn do I want?
What do I want to use it for?
What kind of site do I have?
How much time do I have to prepare and look after a lawn?
What time of year is it?
How long will it take to establish the lawn?
It is better to always draw out the design for your lawn on paper, preferably on graph paper and to some sort of scale. Remember to include on this plan any buildings or boundary edges as well as any existing features. I know it all sounds a bit “fussy” but it really is worthwhile if you are serious about getting the lawn you want, and you may as well be as the amount of actual work is going to be the same whether it is right or not. Possibly even less work if you have spent time planning your lawn properly.
Once you have decided what you want to use your lawn for, this will lead you toward the kind you need. It is no good having a top class, luxury lawn if the kids are going to use it as a football pitch, the dog as a toilet and you have precious little time to look after it.
Next you have to consider the kind of plot you have. Is it level or on a very steep gradient, meaning that you will have a lot of preparation work to do if you want to be able to mow your lawn quickly and easily.
A very worthwhile consideration, if you are not sure yet what features you are going to have in your lawn, is to grass the largest area you can and remove turf later to add features such as pathways, ponds and fountains, decking for a seating area, etc., etc.
It is always easier, and looks better, to remove turf than to try and add to your lawn. It never seems to “patch-in” quite right.
The time of year that you want to put down your lawn will dictate whether it can be done with grass seed or if it will have to be turf, just as much as how long you wish to wait before you can use your lawn.
Turf is the quickest option and you can be using your new lawn after just a few weeks, it can also be laid just about any when if you prepare and continually water. It is also the most expensive method, so if budget is a major concern then you will have to use seed and plant either in early spring or early autumn. Seed will obviously take a lot longer to establish itself before you can use it.
Once you have considered all the above questions, get your design down on paper and be prepared to make some changes as you go along. No new lawn design will be right first time, it is only one part of your garden, a major part that has to be right I grant you but, still only one part of an overall picture. Spend time getting your lawn right now and it will probably be the crowning glory in your garden, something that you can use to improve the rest of your garden little by little.
Do it right first time and you only have to do it the once, you can add and change it but the main hard work is done.
In part 2 of this article we will look at more of the specifics of designing your lawn and the general practicalities of shape, features, planting and borders and all the other details that make a lawn such an eye-catching masterpiece if done right.
Remember, put the time in now and put your feet up later. That is the golden rule of lawn design - now, see you in part 2.
Part 1.
If you are going to design a lawn, whether it be totally from scratch on a brand new plot, or incorporating an existing lawn or features that are already established, you need to think and plan very carefully before you take to your tools and sewing lawn seed or turf.
The lawn you lay in haste is a lawn you are likely to grow to dislike. A little bit of extra thought now will save a lot of anguish, hard work and heartache later.
Before you even think about buying anything or getting any tools out, ask yourself a few simple questions.
What kind of lawn do I want?
What do I want to use it for?
What kind of site do I have?
How much time do I have to prepare and look after a lawn?
What time of year is it?
How long will it take to establish the lawn?
It is better to always draw out the design for your lawn on paper, preferably on graph paper and to some sort of scale. Remember to include on this plan any buildings or boundary edges as well as any existing features. I know it all sounds a bit “fussy” but it really is worthwhile if you are serious about getting the lawn you want, and you may as well be as the amount of actual work is going to be the same whether it is right or not. Possibly even less work if you have spent time planning your lawn properly.
Once you have decided what you want to use your lawn for, this will lead you toward the kind you need. It is no good having a top class, luxury lawn if the kids are going to use it as a football pitch, the dog as a toilet and you have precious little time to look after it.
Next you have to consider the kind of plot you have. Is it level or on a very steep gradient, meaning that you will have a lot of preparation work to do if you want to be able to mow your lawn quickly and easily.
A very worthwhile consideration, if you are not sure yet what features you are going to have in your lawn, is to grass the largest area you can and remove turf later to add features such as pathways, ponds and fountains, decking for a seating area, etc., etc.
It is always easier, and looks better, to remove turf than to try and add to your lawn. It never seems to “patch-in” quite right.
The time of year that you want to put down your lawn will dictate whether it can be done with grass seed or if it will have to be turf, just as much as how long you wish to wait before you can use your lawn.
Turf is the quickest option and you can be using your new lawn after just a few weeks, it can also be laid just about any when if you prepare and continually water. It is also the most expensive method, so if budget is a major concern then you will have to use seed and plant either in early spring or early autumn. Seed will obviously take a lot longer to establish itself before you can use it.
Once you have considered all the above questions, get your design down on paper and be prepared to make some changes as you go along. No new lawn design will be right first time, it is only one part of your garden, a major part that has to be right I grant you but, still only one part of an overall picture. Spend time getting your lawn right now and it will probably be the crowning glory in your garden, something that you can use to improve the rest of your garden little by little.
Do it right first time and you only have to do it the once, you can add and change it but the main hard work is done.
In part 2 of this article we will look at more of the specifics of designing your lawn and the general practicalities of shape, features, planting and borders and all the other details that make a lawn such an eye-catching masterpiece if done right.
Remember, put the time in now and put your feet up later. That is the golden rule of lawn design - now, see you in part 2.
Wednesday, October 11, 2006
Is Your Lawn Ready For Winter Yet?
Is Your Lawn Ready For Winter Yet?
The Autumn Programme
As with most things in the garden, if you want the best out of your lawn all year round, you must put in a little bit of work and get your lawn ready for winter. Put it to bed happy, so to speak!
The autumn programme really starts in September, but remember that a lot of what you need to do is related to the weather, the whereabouts you live, is your lawn open to all elements or protected, the type of lawn and so on and so on. You really do need to adjust this programme to your own situation and treat it as more of a guide, BUT you do need to “put in the work!”.
September.
This is the month when you do tend to be busy with your lawn but remember that it will all be worthwhile in the spring and summer.
Keep cutting the grass but start reducing the frequency of your mowing and just start to raise the blades (height of cut), a little bit. You should be mowing about ¼” above your summer cutting height and only every fortnight, as a general rule.
Take care not to mow your lawn when it is particularly wet at this time.
One of the things to watch out for in September is that this is the month that worms may become active in your lawn. Use a good quality lawn dressing to control any cast-forming worms and deal with any other pests and diseases that may try to gain a foothold. Preferably us a product that will also feed the grassroots at the same time.
Lawn repairs should be carried out during any showery weather as the rain will obviously help any new seed to germinate or new turf to “bed-in”.
Remember that new lawns by seeding should be planted about now as this is the best time, but turfing can continue into November if the weather permits.
It is probably best to get all smaller repairs and bare patches dealt with now by seeding if you can, you can also use turf later if this does not work.
Make sure you scarify your lawn to de-thatch it in September, you can finish this job in October but it is best done sooner rather than later.
Scarifying, for those that have not come across this term before, is where you rake your lawn quite aggressively to remove any dead grass and debris gathered at the root level (this is referred to as “thatch”).
It is quite a time consuming and physical job so you may want to do it in sections if you have a large lawn, (it is very good exercise if you want to stay fit!).
After you have completed this job you then need to aerate, or spike your lawn. This is where you use a garden fork, or a specially bought aerator, and make a series of holes in your lawn about 3 to 5 inches deep (75mm - 125mm), all over the entire area, or at least any hard, compacted areas, especially where there is a lot of traffic e.g. Where the kids play, the pathway to the garage or shed, that sort of area is likely to become compacted and hard.
This aerating allows the earth to breathe and the roots of the grass to grow healthily, so please do not ignore these two steps. Yes, they are probably the two hardest jobs to do on your lawn but they will show great results.
Any diseased areas showing should be treated now with a systemic fungicide and use a good quality lawn dressing to feed and protect from moss.
October/November.
During October regular mowing of your lawn should probably come to an end, but, depending on weather and conditions, it is not beyond the realms of possibility to give them a cut in November, or even December. Just keep an eye on the weather and certainly do not cut in frosty weather. Make the last cut or two quite high and not when the lawn is wet. Trim the edges and don’t forget that top dressing.
Pack your cutting tools away for the winter after a good clean and “oil-up”.
Make sure that you keep the lawn free of leaves and debris as this will just aggravate any worm problem and can set the stage for diseases.
November is too late to use lawn seed but is a good month for turfing.
December.
Not much to do now, keep the lawn free from leaves and rubbish and try to stay off of it as much as possible. If you have to walk a path often then think about putting down a board or stepping stones. Think of the winter as your lawns “hibernating” stage and try not to disturb it too often.
If you carry out your Autumn programme with care and attention your lawn will reward you, not only next year, but for many years to come because you have set the foundations for strong and healthy growth.
Next year the work will be easier because your lawn will be healthier, that’s it’s own way of saying “thank you for looking after me”.
The Autumn Programme
As with most things in the garden, if you want the best out of your lawn all year round, you must put in a little bit of work and get your lawn ready for winter. Put it to bed happy, so to speak!
The autumn programme really starts in September, but remember that a lot of what you need to do is related to the weather, the whereabouts you live, is your lawn open to all elements or protected, the type of lawn and so on and so on. You really do need to adjust this programme to your own situation and treat it as more of a guide, BUT you do need to “put in the work!”.
September.
This is the month when you do tend to be busy with your lawn but remember that it will all be worthwhile in the spring and summer.
Keep cutting the grass but start reducing the frequency of your mowing and just start to raise the blades (height of cut), a little bit. You should be mowing about ¼” above your summer cutting height and only every fortnight, as a general rule.
Take care not to mow your lawn when it is particularly wet at this time.
One of the things to watch out for in September is that this is the month that worms may become active in your lawn. Use a good quality lawn dressing to control any cast-forming worms and deal with any other pests and diseases that may try to gain a foothold. Preferably us a product that will also feed the grassroots at the same time.
Lawn repairs should be carried out during any showery weather as the rain will obviously help any new seed to germinate or new turf to “bed-in”.
Remember that new lawns by seeding should be planted about now as this is the best time, but turfing can continue into November if the weather permits.
It is probably best to get all smaller repairs and bare patches dealt with now by seeding if you can, you can also use turf later if this does not work.
Make sure you scarify your lawn to de-thatch it in September, you can finish this job in October but it is best done sooner rather than later.
Scarifying, for those that have not come across this term before, is where you rake your lawn quite aggressively to remove any dead grass and debris gathered at the root level (this is referred to as “thatch”).
It is quite a time consuming and physical job so you may want to do it in sections if you have a large lawn, (it is very good exercise if you want to stay fit!).
After you have completed this job you then need to aerate, or spike your lawn. This is where you use a garden fork, or a specially bought aerator, and make a series of holes in your lawn about 3 to 5 inches deep (75mm - 125mm), all over the entire area, or at least any hard, compacted areas, especially where there is a lot of traffic e.g. Where the kids play, the pathway to the garage or shed, that sort of area is likely to become compacted and hard.
This aerating allows the earth to breathe and the roots of the grass to grow healthily, so please do not ignore these two steps. Yes, they are probably the two hardest jobs to do on your lawn but they will show great results.
Any diseased areas showing should be treated now with a systemic fungicide and use a good quality lawn dressing to feed and protect from moss.
October/November.
During October regular mowing of your lawn should probably come to an end, but, depending on weather and conditions, it is not beyond the realms of possibility to give them a cut in November, or even December. Just keep an eye on the weather and certainly do not cut in frosty weather. Make the last cut or two quite high and not when the lawn is wet. Trim the edges and don’t forget that top dressing.
Pack your cutting tools away for the winter after a good clean and “oil-up”.
Make sure that you keep the lawn free of leaves and debris as this will just aggravate any worm problem and can set the stage for diseases.
November is too late to use lawn seed but is a good month for turfing.
December.
Not much to do now, keep the lawn free from leaves and rubbish and try to stay off of it as much as possible. If you have to walk a path often then think about putting down a board or stepping stones. Think of the winter as your lawns “hibernating” stage and try not to disturb it too often.
If you carry out your Autumn programme with care and attention your lawn will reward you, not only next year, but for many years to come because you have set the foundations for strong and healthy growth.
Next year the work will be easier because your lawn will be healthier, that’s it’s own way of saying “thank you for looking after me”.
Monday, October 09, 2006
While I Think About It
I was just sat working in the conservatory when the heavens opened with a real downpour, it was like sitting inside a drum with a thousand people beating it. Mind you this isn't the point of this post, it just made me think as I looked out onto the lawn. It made me think that yes, lawns need water, but how many of us that appreciate, or even know, that they really do need other things as well, like fertilizer. Do you put fertilizer on your lawn?
If you do, good - well done. But 99% of "lawn-owners" don't, are you one of them? How about making a pledge to make a note for yourself to "feed" your lawn from now-on.
That's it, just a quick note while I thought about it. I will be talking more about lawn feeding and their other needs as we go along, so "blog" you later.
If you do, good - well done. But 99% of "lawn-owners" don't, are you one of them? How about making a pledge to make a note for yourself to "feed" your lawn from now-on.
That's it, just a quick note while I thought about it. I will be talking more about lawn feeding and their other needs as we go along, so "blog" you later.
Friday, October 06, 2006
What Type Of Lawn Do You Have - Part 2.
What Type Of Lawn Do You Have? - Part 2.
So, now we know what types of lawn there are, how do we know what type we have. That’s easier than you think. Just look at your lawn, what do you see?
You will know if you have a Premium Class type lawn straight away, a virtually perfect, carpet-like expanse of beautiful green, small-leaved grass that looks like a new snooker table. You will also be able to tell because you will be used to doing a lot of regular maintenance and mowing. It is no secret that this type of lawn requires quite an amount of regular work to keep it looking good.
A First Class lawn will show itself because it will be basically free from weeds, moss, brown patches lumps and bumps and will be the same basic green colour all over, with no bare patches. It will drain quickly and completely after a heavy downpour of rain, leaving no puddles.
This type of lawns appearance will be a mixture of broad and fine leaf grasses giving it a nice and smooth, but not velvety appearance. You can improve the appearance by using a medium weight cylinder mower to cut the grass, this will put those “light and dark stripes” on it, if that is what you like.
A Second Class type of lawn will have quite a number of problems, or signs, to look out for. It could have a mixture of one or more of the following.
Brown patches, lumps and bumps in the surface, differing shades of green, bare patches, puddles and doesn’t drain easily after rain leaving areas of black slimy algae on the surface, has moss, daisies, dandelions, clover, pearlwort, clover or other types of weeds in it.
If your lawn has some or all of the above problems then it will be Second Class, but probably can be saved and turned into a First Class lawn with a just a reasonable amount of effort.
Have a good look at the amount and type of “actual” grass that is in the lawn, is it a fair covering or patchy. Is there large areas of damaged, or weedy turf or just lots of small patches with reasonably good grassy patches in-between.
All of this will give you a clue as to the amount of work involved in saving the lawn you have, indeed, even if it can or is worthwhile saving.
It may mean working out a plan to repair lots of small patches bit by bit or one or two much larger areas, or even taking it up and laying a new lawn. You will have to work out what to do based on the time, money and desire you have to get the type of lawn you would really like. Getting the knowledge is the easy bit if you know where to look. (that’s why we are here).
There is however another class of lawn, and one that I hope you do not have…
The Worn Out Lawn
Not too much we can say about this type, but you will recognise it.
Generally there will be virtually no actual grass left in this type, the green colour you see will probably be made up of a collection of clover, moss, pearlwort and broad-leaved weeds. There will also be bare patches in heavily used areas.
The whole area may be like this, in which case the only option is to rip it up and start again or, if it is only like this in small areas, you can replace these areas as you would lay a new lawn,(see later article for laying new lawns), but make sure that you find out the cause of the problems before you replace the grass.
Once you have decided what type of lawn you have, you need to decide what type of lawn you want and can you upgrade the one you have.
You need to figure out what you want your lawn for.
Purely for decoration and just for looking at, (the Premium Class Luxury Type).
Functional and for general use but you want it looking good, (the First Class Everyday Type).
Just want something basically green because I am not going to bother with it too much, (the Second Class General Type).
Also, when deciding which type of lawn you would like, take into account if you have pets that are going to use the lawn as a toilet or any heavy, overhanging trees or shrubs creating a lot of shade.
All these things will affect the choices you have and the amount of work that will be required in achieving your perfect swathe of green velvet.
I hope that this article helps you in your choice of which lawn I have and which type of lawn you would like to have.
So, now we know what types of lawn there are, how do we know what type we have. That’s easier than you think. Just look at your lawn, what do you see?
You will know if you have a Premium Class type lawn straight away, a virtually perfect, carpet-like expanse of beautiful green, small-leaved grass that looks like a new snooker table. You will also be able to tell because you will be used to doing a lot of regular maintenance and mowing. It is no secret that this type of lawn requires quite an amount of regular work to keep it looking good.
A First Class lawn will show itself because it will be basically free from weeds, moss, brown patches lumps and bumps and will be the same basic green colour all over, with no bare patches. It will drain quickly and completely after a heavy downpour of rain, leaving no puddles.
This type of lawns appearance will be a mixture of broad and fine leaf grasses giving it a nice and smooth, but not velvety appearance. You can improve the appearance by using a medium weight cylinder mower to cut the grass, this will put those “light and dark stripes” on it, if that is what you like.
A Second Class type of lawn will have quite a number of problems, or signs, to look out for. It could have a mixture of one or more of the following.
Brown patches, lumps and bumps in the surface, differing shades of green, bare patches, puddles and doesn’t drain easily after rain leaving areas of black slimy algae on the surface, has moss, daisies, dandelions, clover, pearlwort, clover or other types of weeds in it.
If your lawn has some or all of the above problems then it will be Second Class, but probably can be saved and turned into a First Class lawn with a just a reasonable amount of effort.
Have a good look at the amount and type of “actual” grass that is in the lawn, is it a fair covering or patchy. Is there large areas of damaged, or weedy turf or just lots of small patches with reasonably good grassy patches in-between.
All of this will give you a clue as to the amount of work involved in saving the lawn you have, indeed, even if it can or is worthwhile saving.
It may mean working out a plan to repair lots of small patches bit by bit or one or two much larger areas, or even taking it up and laying a new lawn. You will have to work out what to do based on the time, money and desire you have to get the type of lawn you would really like. Getting the knowledge is the easy bit if you know where to look. (that’s why we are here).
There is however another class of lawn, and one that I hope you do not have…
The Worn Out Lawn
Not too much we can say about this type, but you will recognise it.
Generally there will be virtually no actual grass left in this type, the green colour you see will probably be made up of a collection of clover, moss, pearlwort and broad-leaved weeds. There will also be bare patches in heavily used areas.
The whole area may be like this, in which case the only option is to rip it up and start again or, if it is only like this in small areas, you can replace these areas as you would lay a new lawn,(see later article for laying new lawns), but make sure that you find out the cause of the problems before you replace the grass.
Once you have decided what type of lawn you have, you need to decide what type of lawn you want and can you upgrade the one you have.
You need to figure out what you want your lawn for.
Purely for decoration and just for looking at, (the Premium Class Luxury Type).
Functional and for general use but you want it looking good, (the First Class Everyday Type).
Just want something basically green because I am not going to bother with it too much, (the Second Class General Type).
Also, when deciding which type of lawn you would like, take into account if you have pets that are going to use the lawn as a toilet or any heavy, overhanging trees or shrubs creating a lot of shade.
All these things will affect the choices you have and the amount of work that will be required in achieving your perfect swathe of green velvet.
I hope that this article helps you in your choice of which lawn I have and which type of lawn you would like to have.
What Type Of Lawn Do You Have - Part 1
What Type Of Lawn Do You Have? - Part 1.
Before you even think about what type of lawn you would like to have, or set about repairing the one you have now. You need to know the type of lawn you actually already have, and what you would like to use your “new“ one for.
Before we go on, let’s set a few guidelines as to what types of lawns there are, a few benchmarks to recognise and give each one a home.
1. Premium Class Luxury Type.
This is the type of lawn that everyone thinks they would like. Smooth, velvety, bowling green come putting green type that you often see at various show gardens and country estates.
Absolutely beautiful, just like a carpet, but is it practical.
Well. Not really. It will not take much wear and tear so no good for the kids or if you walk the same path to the garage every day, you will soon see the wear and tear here.
It will not stand neglect so you will have to be prepared to be working at keeping it looking good regularly and it is very expensive to plant or repair.
In summary, looks good but not very practical for 99% of uses that a lawn will get. (that’s why you see all those “keep off the grass” signs at stately homes and the like).
2. First Class Everyday Type.
This is the type that most people would realistically call “their perfect lawn”. Not as smooth and velvety as the Premium Class, but much more hard-wearing and suitable for general family life. It will put up with just about all aspects of our modern, outdoor lifestyle. Barbecue parties, kids playing games and the run of the mill regular pathway to the garage, shed or washing line.
This type of lawn will even tolerate a small amount of neglect and bad mowing practice, although you should obviously try to avoid this as it just means more work later.
3. Second Class General Type.
This is the type of lawn that the greater majority of households in the UK have and there are a couple of main reasons for that.
Firstly, it was inadvertently designed to be that type. By this I mean that the great masses of new housing estates springing up all over the country have little or no planning put into their garden design, and even less into their lawns.
Building rubble is just a few inches below the surface and poor quality cheap top soil is used to cover it. This soil is often second rate and un-screened so is full of weed seeds which will grow faster and strangle the growth of the grass seed if seed is used. The lawn will not stand a chance as the weeds will grow faster than the grass and strangle it.
If turf is used, it’s a very similar story, poor quality turf laid on a badly prepared surface. The turf could have been laying around un-watered for days before planting and, more often than not, is left un-watered after it has been laid. The builders are just that, builders and not gardeners, they probably know nothing about lawns other than that they are supposed to be green and you cut them now and then, and they just move onto the next house or estate as fast as possible.
The second reason that you may have a Second Class lawn is just through neglect and bad design.
Heavy shade from large, overhanging plants causes problems as does the dripping of water from trees. Heavy traffic along the same route (to the garage, washing line or shed) and pets using it as a toilet causes damage and deterioration, as does pests and diseases.
But it has to be said that a major reason for having a Second Class lawn is that we don’t know how to, or we just don’t look after it. We cut the grass irregularly and when it is too long or overgrown, we cut it too short when we do cut it. We never feed , water or weed it, but still expect it to look good.
Try leaving your pet goldfish, hamster, dog or cat for a few months without food, water or attention and see how good they look, (no, don’t do that, really), but I think that you get the idea. If you neglect, mistreat or ignore anything long enough it will be in a poor condition and maybe even die altogether. Your lawn is the same, it needs some amount of looking after.
Just don’t do it, a little regular work saves a lot of time, effort and money later on. Even if you are not too worried about how your lawn looks, there may come a time when you wish to sell your property, and your prospective buyers WILL care.
Don’t Forget To Check Out Part 2 For The Complete Article.
Before you even think about what type of lawn you would like to have, or set about repairing the one you have now. You need to know the type of lawn you actually already have, and what you would like to use your “new“ one for.
Before we go on, let’s set a few guidelines as to what types of lawns there are, a few benchmarks to recognise and give each one a home.
1. Premium Class Luxury Type.
This is the type of lawn that everyone thinks they would like. Smooth, velvety, bowling green come putting green type that you often see at various show gardens and country estates.
Absolutely beautiful, just like a carpet, but is it practical.
Well. Not really. It will not take much wear and tear so no good for the kids or if you walk the same path to the garage every day, you will soon see the wear and tear here.
It will not stand neglect so you will have to be prepared to be working at keeping it looking good regularly and it is very expensive to plant or repair.
In summary, looks good but not very practical for 99% of uses that a lawn will get. (that’s why you see all those “keep off the grass” signs at stately homes and the like).
2. First Class Everyday Type.
This is the type that most people would realistically call “their perfect lawn”. Not as smooth and velvety as the Premium Class, but much more hard-wearing and suitable for general family life. It will put up with just about all aspects of our modern, outdoor lifestyle. Barbecue parties, kids playing games and the run of the mill regular pathway to the garage, shed or washing line.
This type of lawn will even tolerate a small amount of neglect and bad mowing practice, although you should obviously try to avoid this as it just means more work later.
3. Second Class General Type.
This is the type of lawn that the greater majority of households in the UK have and there are a couple of main reasons for that.
Firstly, it was inadvertently designed to be that type. By this I mean that the great masses of new housing estates springing up all over the country have little or no planning put into their garden design, and even less into their lawns.
Building rubble is just a few inches below the surface and poor quality cheap top soil is used to cover it. This soil is often second rate and un-screened so is full of weed seeds which will grow faster and strangle the growth of the grass seed if seed is used. The lawn will not stand a chance as the weeds will grow faster than the grass and strangle it.
If turf is used, it’s a very similar story, poor quality turf laid on a badly prepared surface. The turf could have been laying around un-watered for days before planting and, more often than not, is left un-watered after it has been laid. The builders are just that, builders and not gardeners, they probably know nothing about lawns other than that they are supposed to be green and you cut them now and then, and they just move onto the next house or estate as fast as possible.
The second reason that you may have a Second Class lawn is just through neglect and bad design.
Heavy shade from large, overhanging plants causes problems as does the dripping of water from trees. Heavy traffic along the same route (to the garage, washing line or shed) and pets using it as a toilet causes damage and deterioration, as does pests and diseases.
But it has to be said that a major reason for having a Second Class lawn is that we don’t know how to, or we just don’t look after it. We cut the grass irregularly and when it is too long or overgrown, we cut it too short when we do cut it. We never feed , water or weed it, but still expect it to look good.
Try leaving your pet goldfish, hamster, dog or cat for a few months without food, water or attention and see how good they look, (no, don’t do that, really), but I think that you get the idea. If you neglect, mistreat or ignore anything long enough it will be in a poor condition and maybe even die altogether. Your lawn is the same, it needs some amount of looking after.
Just don’t do it, a little regular work saves a lot of time, effort and money later on. Even if you are not too worried about how your lawn looks, there may come a time when you wish to sell your property, and your prospective buyers WILL care.
Don’t Forget To Check Out Part 2 For The Complete Article.
Monday, October 02, 2006
Introduction
I was going to call this bit "why me and why lawns", but thought better of it and settled for a simple introduction.
I do not intend to put myself forward as some kind of expert or anything like that, heaven forbid, I am just an ordinary guy with an ordinary house and an ordinary family with an ordinary lawn.
I do not profess to know everything there is to know about the "green stuff", but I do know how and where to go about finding it, so, as I needed to do something to sort out my own lawn and get it looking and wearing better, I thought that I may as well gather all the information together in one place and share it with you so that you can save yourself the time and trouble of doing exactly the same as I have already done. Makes sense doesn't it?
I also hope that you will share with me, by contacting me with any information, tips, questions or comments about lawns, their care and maintenance and anything else about them, that you may have.
Also tell any of your friends, neighbours, family or work-mates about this blog if you think that it may help them - there are no charges or cost's involved, everything is free.
I hope to regularly bring you articles and tips to inform and help you get the best from your lawn - heck, we have to go out and mow it, strim it or edge it anyway, we might as well find out the right way to do it. We might even save some time too. So please come back often, help yourself to all the free articles and help, and check out what's going on.
Don't forget to contact me, nicholaschivers@googlemail.com if you have any questions, tips, comments or advice, and I look forward to "blogging" with you about lawns again soon.
I do not intend to put myself forward as some kind of expert or anything like that, heaven forbid, I am just an ordinary guy with an ordinary house and an ordinary family with an ordinary lawn.
I do not profess to know everything there is to know about the "green stuff", but I do know how and where to go about finding it, so, as I needed to do something to sort out my own lawn and get it looking and wearing better, I thought that I may as well gather all the information together in one place and share it with you so that you can save yourself the time and trouble of doing exactly the same as I have already done. Makes sense doesn't it?
I also hope that you will share with me, by contacting me with any information, tips, questions or comments about lawns, their care and maintenance and anything else about them, that you may have.
Also tell any of your friends, neighbours, family or work-mates about this blog if you think that it may help them - there are no charges or cost's involved, everything is free.
I hope to regularly bring you articles and tips to inform and help you get the best from your lawn - heck, we have to go out and mow it, strim it or edge it anyway, we might as well find out the right way to do it. We might even save some time too. So please come back often, help yourself to all the free articles and help, and check out what's going on.
Don't forget to contact me, nicholaschivers@googlemail.com if you have any questions, tips, comments or advice, and I look forward to "blogging" with you about lawns again soon.
Welcome
Welcome to the "Beautiful World Of Lawns" Blog.
It is intended that "World Of Lawns" becomes a truly comprehensive library of resources, tools, products and information about, and to do with, all things lawn related.
The whole purpose of this blog is to give you information, product reviews and answer your questions so you can keep, or even plant, a lawn to be proud of. One that you and your family can use every day or one that you can really show off with and be the envy of all your friends and neighbours, so...
please feel free to browse around and email any questions or comments about lawns to:
nicholaschivers@googlemail.com
It is intended that "World Of Lawns" becomes a truly comprehensive library of resources, tools, products and information about, and to do with, all things lawn related.
The whole purpose of this blog is to give you information, product reviews and answer your questions so you can keep, or even plant, a lawn to be proud of. One that you and your family can use every day or one that you can really show off with and be the envy of all your friends and neighbours, so...
please feel free to browse around and email any questions or comments about lawns to:
nicholaschivers@googlemail.com
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